DIY Bottle Cap Catch
Spring is finally here, and I’m so glad for the (slightly) warmer weather. I’d like it to keep heating up, but I’ll take what we’ve got so far over the bitterly cold, snow/sleet days that we had during the winter. Lots of things change for me with the warmer weather; there’s more motivation to get things done, I have a more positive outlook on the days, and work commutes aren’t always in the dark!
As the days get warmer, we also notice that we can actually stand being in the garage working more than we could in the dead of winter (I don’t know about you, but I’m not big on DIY projects and such in sub-zero temperatures). Our garage isn’t the best insulated place and we pretty much avoided being in there as much as we could throughout the winter, even moving our workout equipment to the basement.
Over the holiday season we got a fancy new saw and have been wanting to put it to good use (see frigid temperatures for why we haven’t yet). I’ve been on spring break this week and Joelle has been home with me, so we finally got around to cleaning up the garage and setting the saw up. Yippee!
The saw is a Makita Compound Miter Saw, and it is going to make projects so much easier. It’s adjustable to angles up to 45 degrees either direction, as well as being able to bevel up to 45 degrees (it can even do both at the same time!). Since the blade is on an arm that moves up and down, we no longer have to worry about our cuts not being perfectly straight. It also has a sawdust bag to collect dust, cutting way back on the mess factor!
Alright, alright, I know you didn’t come here to listen to me go on and on about the cool new saw, so let’s put it to good use! I’ve been wanting to make a bottle cap catch for a long time; we’ve had a bottle opener mounted over by our bar for awhile but have always just caught the cap in our hand and then stored them away. We collect our bottle caps for fun projects (check out our amazing Bottle Cap Sofa Table!) and this is a great way to combine the bottle opener with a way to catch the caps. We finally had some time (and weather) to work on some DIYs, so we got to work.
This project goes together really quick, regardless of if you have a compound miter saw or just a regular saw (although the mitre saw definitely speeds it up). It’s a great weekend project, or if you start in the morning could probably be completed in a day. This DIY won’t break the bank either (we actually constructed ours entirely out of extra wood we had in the garage).
Make sure you’re ready for your project!
- 1”x6” board that measures 13” long (or cut a 13” section from a larger board
- 1”x4” board for sides of catch (will need 3” section of it. We used a piece from a pallet for this)
- 1 6ft trim piece (we used lattice moulding) 1/4 “ thick and 1 ½” or 1 ⅜” wide. You’ll only need about 18” of this board. Our three slats for the front of the catch will be cut from this piece.
- Liquid Nails or Wood Glue
- Minwax Water-Based Pre- Stain Wood Conditioner
- Minwax Water-Based Stain
- Minwax Polycrylic Water Based Protective Finish
- Brushes and Rags to apply coats
- Mountable Bottle Opener (and screws for mounting if it doesn’t come with them)
- Sawtooths and nails to mount to a wall/surface
Build your Bottle Cap Catch:
1. Cut your base piece down to 13”.
2. Mark and cut two diagonal sections out of the top side of the board. Measure and make a mark 1½” in from the top side of the board. If you are using a compound mitre saw, you can line up your blade (when it’s set to 0 degrees) with this 1½” mark, then set your mitre angle to 45 degrees, and cut these sections very easily. You can actually cut one section out, flip the board over (to the backside), and it should be lined up if you put it back in the same place to cut out the other section. Otherwise, repeat this step on the other side of the board (so both diagonal sections come off of the top side of the board).
2A. If you are using a circular saw, measure and mark 1½” out from each corner and draw a diagonal line between the two marks. Repeat this on the other top side. Take your circular saw and cut along the lines.
3. Cut your side pieces from the 1”x4” board. Again, this is much easier with the mitre saw. Measure 3” in from the edge of the board and draw a line. Line this mark up with your blade with the mitre set to 0 degrees. Before you cut, rotate your blade so that the blade lines up with the corner of the board. (should be pretty close to a 45 degree mitre). Make your cut. This should give you a triangular piece. Then adjust the blade back to 0 degrees and it should be lined up to cut the other triangular piece. Make your cut. Both pieces should be the same.
4. Cut three 5½” inch sections from the trim piece for your slats. These should be straight cuts, at 0 degree mitre.
5. Sand down all of your pieces.
6. Assemble the catch. Using liquid nails or wood glue, attach the slat pieces to the triangular pieces. I found it easiest to lie the slats out on a table and then to glue the triangular pieces on each edge of the slats.
7. Attach the catch to the base using liquid nails or wood glue. Allow everything to set fully. After the glue has fully dried, clean up any extra with sandpaper or a small putty knife.
8. Prepare your wood for stain using a wood conditioner. Brush this on with the grain and allow to set for 15-20 minutes. Wipe off any excess that doesn’t soak in.
9. Stain your wood. Apply your stain using a brush working to apply evenly across all surfaces. Let the stain soak in for 3-5 minutes (longer will give a darker stain color) and then wipe off using a clean rag. Allow the stain to set and dry for 3 hours or so.
10. Seal your piece using a poly. Apply thin even coats using a synthetic brush, working with the grain of the wood. I typically go back after coating and make one final pass along the length of the board, trying to get a nice even finish and to avoid brush marks showing. Allow the poly to set at least two hours. Lightly sand all surfaces using a fine 220 grit sandpaper and then wipe off using a clean rag.
11. Repeat step 10 for additional coats of poly. I recommend 3 coats as this seems to give a good finished look to the piece and ensures that all surfaces get a good seal. You do not need to sand after the final coat of poly.
12. Mount your bottle opener. Mark where your screw holes will need to be and then drill small pilot holes. Then drive in the screws by hand with a screwdriver (you can use an impact driver but will increase the risk of cracking or damaging the wood).
13. Hang your bottle cap catch. Attach two sawtooths, one towards the top of the bottle cap catch and the other in the lower third, directly below the first one. Use these to hang the catch with nails on the wall.
Stand back and admire your work. Better yet, crack open a beer and enjoy your awesome new bottle cap catch! We have mounted our catch right next to our bar and it has already seen great use. It was a great way for us to upcycle the bottle opener that our friend had given us a few years ago (bonus that it already matched the colors of our house!).
Where will you be putting your new bottle cap catch? Let us know down in the comment section below. Be sure to subscribe using the box on the right so you never miss another great DIY or recipe from Our Sweetly Spiced Life.
Until next time, enjoy the journey!
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